Comment by jamiedumont
Comment by jamiedumont 2 days ago
Thanks! I've always been a surfer, but split my time with other activities. Post-accident everyone thinks I'm scared of getting back on the bike — maybe a bit? — but genuinely my first thought post-crash was how long I'd be out of the water. It was a clarification of what I truly enjoyed, and an excuse to double down on being in the water.
I'm now doing anything and everything to get in the sea and improve my surfing. Lengths at the pool for strength and endurance, free diving (and spearfishing) to reduce the anxiety of those big hold-downs. It's been liberating choosing just one sport to be good at.